How China is emerging as a whisky-producing powerhouse

Whisky’s Rising Tide in Baijiu Country: China’s Emerging Spirit Frontier

In China — a country where baijiu has long reigned supreme, dominating a staggering 97% of the domestic spirits market — a quiet yet powerful shift is underway. While brandy still leads the imported spirits category, accounting for 68% of total import value, whisky is rapidly gaining ground. Despite a brief slowdown in 2023, China emerged as the world’s fourth-largest whisky market by value, with growth forecasted to soar by 88% between 2023 and 2026. It's clear: whisky’s momentum in China is not only real, it’s accelerating.

More than 40 distilleries now dot the landscape, stretching from Sichuan’s mist-draped mountains to the coastal plains of Zhejiang. This rise in local production is a response to growing demand and a deeper cultural curiosity about whisky’s heritage, complexity, and craftsmanship.

Whisky first entered China in the late Qing Dynasty, initially making appearances in diplomatic circles. Johnnie Walker established a foothold in 1910, followed by early domestic experiments such as Tsingtao’s attempt in 1914. Still, whisky remained a fringe indulgence for decades—until the 2000s, when renewed trade and cultural openness sparked a revival. Taiwan’s Kavalan and mainland China's Daiking in Fujian helped reawaken interest and establish credibility. By 2021—widely viewed as "Year One" for Chinese whisky—the industry had taken off. Imports surged, and by 2023, China had become the fifth-largest market for UK whisky exports, worth £237 million, with British whisky commanding over 85% market share. In contrast, Japanese whisky saw a 27.45% dip, affected by shifting trade policies and softening demand.

Global brands like Chivas Regal, Johnnie Walker, Jim Beam, and Jack Daniel’s now enjoy a strong presence in China, while premium labels such as The Macallan and Hibiki are celebrated among collectors and connoisseurs. Whisky’s versatility and depth have found a particular resonance with China’s Gen Z consumers, who fuel the trend through e-commerce, social media, and an embrace of creative bar culture. Across major cities, whisky bars and lounges have flourished, offering inventive cocktails and curated collections that blend tradition with trend.

This growing enthusiasm has not only boosted imports but also sparked a vibrant domestic movement. Chinese distillers are stepping up, driven by both ambition and opportunity, ready to reshape what whisky means in a nation that honors its past yet eagerly explores the new.

One such example lies just two hours from Chengdu, in the lush, rain-kissed hills near Mount Emei in Sichuan. There, French spirits giant Pernod Ricard has launched one of China’s most ambitious whisky ventures: The Chuan. Inaugurated by CEO Alexandre Ricard, The Chuan is the company’s first prestige whisky distillery in China. Despite pandemic-era challenges, the £118-million project began in 2019 and unveiled its first single malt whisky in late 2023.

The name — The Chuan — carries symbolic weight. “The” signals exclusivity, while Chuan (川) means “multiple rivers,” evoking the natural harmony between water, soil, and people — the very essence of terroir. With its refined vision and strategic roots in Sichuan’s dramatic landscape, The Chuan exemplifies China’s growing ambition to not only consume world-class whisky — but to create it.